I am sitting on a balcony overlooking a marina. Superyachts bob in the sunset, and behind me a skyline of implausible architectural wonders is broken with the gentle regularity of a more stately minaret.
The last time I was in Dubai was 30 years ago. Although, as those who mark its warp-speed evolution love to tell you, I would hardly know I’d ever been. As a child, rudely transplanted in early adolescence, we lived on a stretch of residences that sat coast-side of Jumeirah Mosque. I…